One of the great joys of being an aesthete is that there’s always something new to see, always something new to experience, all of which are thrilling to your soul.
On my recent trip to the antiques fair in Parma, I had some free time go to Mantova (Mantua as it is called in English), which has one of the most exquisite palaces I’ve ever seen. The entire region of Emiglia-Romagna, not often thought of as a travel destination, is a treasure for those seeking art and architectural delights.
The Palazzo Te, named for the tiny island on which it stands, was designed in 1524 by Giulio Romano for Federico ll Gonzaga, Duke of Montua. Romano developed his skills as both an architect and designer working as an important assistant to Raphael beginning in 1515. In the fall of 1524, when he was in his late 20’s, Giulio was summoned to the Court of Mantua by Federico ll, son of Francesco ll and Isabella d’Este.
The Marquis wanted a place where he could find respite from his work governing the state and where he could pursue his love of the arts and classical objects. Federico commissioned Romano to design and oversee the construction of a palace for “the honest leisure of the prince.” It was to be built on the site of his stables, an ancient structure which stood in a meadow. Romano was ordered to design the new palace incorporating the old stable walls within his design.
While working on Raphael’s Vatican frescos, Romano became enamored with the work of Michelangelo to whom he pays homage at the Palazzo Te, with it’s dynamic compositions, gigantic figures and expressive power. The palazzo’s riches include a fine open court plan within the original stable walls and interiors decorated with powerful frescos, gorgeous stucco details, patterned floors and rich marble mantles and doorways. It is, quite frankly, a masterpiece!
